Heart of Exmoor

Exford lies on the upper reaches of the river Exe and is the last village before you follow that delightful river out onto the open moor. This is riding country - everywhere you go there are people on horseback and the Devon and Somerset Staghounds have their kennels here. The village which owes much of its livelihood to horses and hunting and provided you have an open mind you will find the local people friendly, well-informed and with a wealth of local country lore.

Drive west to Simonsbath and you are at the heart of the history of Exmoor. For it was here that the Knights of Exmoor established their home and the base for their reclamation of Exmoor. It was at the beginning of the nineteenth century that the majority of Royal Forest of Exmoor - for centuries the hunting grounds of the kings, queens and nobles of England - was sold to John Knight for £50,000. His plan was to reclaim the land for farming and the success which he and his son, Frederick, enjoyed should not be underestimated.

The story is a fascinating one and if you would like to know more then read the chapter called ‘The Knights of Exmoor’ in S.H.Burton’s book ‘Exmoor’. One of the earliest Wardens of the Forest, James Boevey, built the first house in the forest at Simonsbath. He is commemorated by Boevey’s Restaurant, part of the Simonsbath House Hotel. There are excellent walks along the river here, one of our favourite’s being the one to Cow Castle. We are grateful to the hotel for permission to use the drawing of the deer on this page.



If you go north from Simonsbath up the B3223 you will come to Brendon, a delightful little village scattered along the East Lyn valley. St Brendan’s church, overlooking the valley, was rebuilt in 1738 and further restored in the nineteenth century. There is a Norman font and, over the porch, a pretty sundial dated 1707. A path from Brendon will take you to Lynmouth via Watersmeet, or you can explore further into Brendon Common.

You are now well and truly in Doone Country. The classic novel by R.D.Blackmore was well researched and based upon local stories of the notorious Doones of Badgworthy. These local stories had their origins in real events and places which can be seen today. The popularity of the novel lies in Blackmore’s ability to turn these stories into classic literature; however we may like to think that it was the time he spent exploring in the Doone Valley which really fired his imagination.

From Brendon continue on to Malmsmead. Here is Lorna Doone Farm, which dates from the fourteenth century and was known as Plovers Barrow Farm, the home of John Ridd. Badgworthy Water runs by the farm and is spanned by the ancient Malmsmead Bridge with an attractive ford alongside.

Malmsmead is at the entrance to the Doone Valley, but there are only two ways in which to really experience the environment in which the Doones thrived: on foot, by walking a few miles (do bring appropriate footwear) or on horseback. Quite soon you will discover something of the romance and mystery of the real Doone Valley. All that is left of a small medieval village at Hoccombe Combe are the scattered stones which are the remains of apparently 14 buildings, exactly the number of dwellings which Blackmore claims for the Doones in the novel.

You should also visit Oare, and the tragic scene where Lorna was shot by the villainous Carver Doone in the church on her wedding day. Look above the window in the tiny church to see the ‘preserved’ bullet hole. There is a monument to the author who brought so much fame to the parish. His grandfather was rector here from 1809 to 1842, and Blackmore stayed with him as a boy, undoubtedly absorbing the legends that would appeal to a boy, of local brigands, and visualising them in the surrounding combes.

Exmoor is rightly famous for its wild places and the wildlife that inhabit them. Exmoor is home to forty species of land mammals, including the red deer, Exmoor Pony and 15 species of bat. 111 species of birds nest within the National Park and nearly 1200 species of flowers and grasses have been recorded.There are many unusual habitats on Exmoor which have not been disturbed where rare plants and animals live.

The Exmoor Pony, although not strictly wild, as they are all owned by someone, roams the moors. They are rarer than the giant pandas and have lived on the moor for longer than people have. It is the nearest breed we have to the original wild horses of Europe. Exmoor is unique in England as red deer have lived here since prehistoric times and half the red deer in England live on Exmoor.

There are 300 miles of rivers and streams on Exmoor alone and there are plenty of fish in the clear waters, including salmon and trout. The otter has gradually increased its numbers here and you may catch a glimpse of these secretive creatures.

Exmoor provides miles of wild places to explore!