Bradworthy and Clovelly

Following signs to Bradworthy you seem to drive for miles on pleasant minor country roads, through acres of farmland, and suddenly you find this busy village. The most striking feature is a large open area forming the square, a sure sign that this was once a market town of some importance.

Relative isolation has created a largely self-sufficient community; the visitor discovering a North Devon village unspoilt by tourism, welcoming those who trouble to find it. There are few shops, yet they stock just about everything; a lovely tea room with local craftwork, the parish church spanning many centuries and, inevitably the village hostelry.

Recently honoured by being included in ‘QUALITY BRITAIN’ 2000 produced by The British Embassy in Tokyo - presenting the best of the UK, The Gnome Reserve, Wild Flower Garden and Pixie Kiln is celebrating its 31st anniversary.

‘Nowhere in the world is there anywhere like this magic spot at West Putford’ wrote The United Press International, and it’s true. The enchanted 4 acres - featured more than 60 times on television worldwide, on radio and in newspapers, magazines and books too many times to count - is suitable for, and brings joy and delight to everyone from 1 to 101.

Imagination and humour with the gnomes in the woodland. Peace and beauty with the flowers, herbs and grasses in The Wild Flower Garden. Watch indoor pottery pixies being created and visit the Victorian to 1940s gnome collection. With its fascinating appeal, The Gnome Reserve must be seen to be believed.

In an area of many picturesque villages Sheepwash is one which deserves a particular mention: a special conservation village in the midst of delightful countryside. The River Torridge flows nearby; the Half Moon Inn owns the fishing rights for nine miles and the pub becomes a Mecca for fishermen.

Sheepwash was once a country market town; local farmers and traders gathered on the square to buy and sell, and to gossip. Once boasting several pubs and shops, plus a glove factory, it is now a peaceful village and a very pleasant place to visit.

To fully appreciate the atmosphere and tranquillity of this area, park in the village Square and take the lane leading south from the village down to the river Torridge. If you have already visited Instow and Bideford you may find it hard to associate this clear rippling stream with the wide wave tossed reaches of the Estuary. Stand and watch the water before turning back to the village. This is Tarka’s river and although you are unlikely to see an Otter today they are still about in this area.

The nearby village of Shebbear is less picturesque but equally interesting. Under an ancient oak tree lies a large rock known as the Devil’s Stone. On 5th November each year village Bellringers approach the stone with crowbars and staves and turn it over. This ancient custom (it goes back at least a thousand years!) will protect the village from the works of the devil for another year and It is reputed to be the oldest still-performed custom in Europe.

The village church is worth visiting, having a fine Jacobean carved pulpit and a Norman doorway - unfortunately many of the other old features were lost in restoration works which took place in the nineteenth century. You are in an area of small villages - the real rural Devon. If you do venture into the lanes you should either take an Ordnance Survey map or prepare for a happy session of signpost reading - names such as Petrockstowe, Buckland Filleigh, Black Torrington and Peters Marland are all there to tempt you on.

Clovelly

The Atlantic coast can be treacherous, and Clovelly provides the only sheltered harbour along this coast. Fishing and smuggling (or ‘‘free trading’’ as it was known) were the main activities until this picturesque village on a cliff became famous as a subject for artists and authors at the end of the last century. Charles Kingsley featured it in his novels (notably Westward Ho!).

Subsequently, tourists started to arrive by paddle steamer from Ilfracombe and then by the coachload. The donkeys which once carried herring up the steep slope from the harbour transported those exhausted visitors who, having descended, found the going too hard on the way up. Now, for a small fee, a Landrover service takes the weary back up.

Modelled on a traditional Devon long barn, you will find an award-winning Visitor Centre, which houses a cafe and souvenir shops so that the village remains uncommercialised. To make the most of your visit, start with the audio visual film (20 mins) which tells the fascinating story of Clovelly and features interviews with current residents. There is an entrance fee payable to the village that covers not only admission to the audio-visual programme and two museums but also your parking.